Exactly how to Install a Tub (Step By Step).

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Removing Old Touches

If you need to replace old faucets with new ones as a part of your installation, after that the first thing you ought to do is disconnect the water. After doing so, switch on the taps to drain pipes any type of water remaining in the system. The procedure of eliminating the existing taps can be rather problematic as a result of the limited access that is usually the situation.
Use a container wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to reverse the nut that links the supply pipes to the faucets. Have a cloth all set for the staying water that will certainly come from the pipelines. When the supply pipes have actually been removed, make use of the same device to loosen the nut that holds the faucets onto the bath/basin. You will require to stop the solitary taps from transforming during this procedure. Once the faucets have been eliminated, the holes in the bath/basin will need to be cleansed of any type of old securing compound.
Prior to proceeding to fit the brand-new taps, contrast the pipe links on the old faucets to the new faucets. If the old taps are longer than the brand-new faucets, then a shank adapter is needed for the new faucets to fit.

Suitable New Taps

If the tails of the brand-new taps are plastic, then you will certainly need a plastic port to prevent damage to the string. One end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the faucet and also the other end supplies a connection to the existing supply pipelines.
If you need to fit a monobloc, then you will certainly require minimizing couplers, which attaches the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the common 15mm supply pipeline.
Next, place the tap in the installing opening in the bath/basin guaranteeing that the washing machines remain in place in between the faucet and the sink. Protect the faucet in position with the producer supplied backnut. As soon as the tap is safely in position, the supply pipelines can be connected to the tails of the taps. The faucets can either be attached by utilizing corrugated copper piping or with normal tap adapters. The previous type ought to be linked to the faucet finishes first, tightening only by hand. The supply pipelines can later on be attached to the other end. Tighten both ends with a spanner after both ends have actually been attached.

Mounting the Bathtub

Using the two wooden boards under its feet, put the bath tub in the called for position. The wooden boards are valuable in uniformly spreading out the weight of the bath tub over the area of the boards instead of focusing all the weight onto four little points.
The following objective is to make certain that the bath tub is leveled all round. This can be attained by checking the spirit level and adjusting the feet on the tub up until the spirit level checks out degree.
To set up faucets, fit all-time low of the outermost adaptable tap connector to the suitable supply pipe by making a compression join; then do the same for the other tap.
Switch on the supply of water as well as inspect all joints as well as new pipework for leaks and tighten them if required. Fill the tub as well as likewise inspect the overflow outlet as well as the normal outlet for leaks.
Finally, fix the bathroom paneling as defined in the supplier's user's manual. Tiling as well as sealing around the tub ought to wait until the bathtub has actually been made use of a minimum of once as this will settle it right into its last setting.

Getting ready for the Setup

Firstly, the supporting structure provided with the bath ought to be fitted (if required) according to the supplier's guidelines. Next off, fit the taps or mixer to the bathtub. When suitable the faucet block, it is essential to ensure that if the tap features a plastic washing machine, it is fitted between the bath and also the taps. On a plastic bath, it is additionally practical to fit a supporting plate under the taps device to avoid strain on the bath tub.
Fit the versatile tap connectors to the bottom of both taps using 2 nuts and also olives (in some cases supplied with the bathtub). Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet opening, and after that pass the outlet via the hole in the bath. Use the nut provided by the producer to fit the plug-hole. Examine the plug-hole electrical outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipe.
Next off, fit the end of the flexible overflow pipeline to the overflow outlet. Afterwards, screw the pipe to the overflow face which need to be fitted inside the bathroom. Make sure you make use of all of the provided washers.
Attach the trap to the bottom of the waste outlet on the tub by winding the thread of the waste electrical outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the catch to the outlet. Attach the bottom of the overflow tube in a comparable manner.The bath need to now prepare to be fitted in its last position.

Tiling Around the Bath tub

In the area where the bathroom meets the ceramic tile, it is necessary to secure the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is very important as the fitting can relocate sufficient to break an inflexible seal, causing the water to pass through the wall in between the bathroom and also the tiling, resulting in difficulties with moisture and also possible leakages to the ceiling listed below.
You can choose from a range of coloured sealants to blend in your components and fittings. They are marketed in tubes and cartridges, and also are capable of sealing voids up to a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a bigger gap to fill up, you can load it with twists of soaked paper or soft rope. Bear in mind to always fill up the bath tub with water before sealing, to permit the activity experienced when the tub remains in usage. The sealant can break relatively very early if you do not take into account this motion prior to securing.
Alternatively, ceramic coving or quadrant ceramic tiles can be utilized to border the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and cut to dimension, are additionally easily available on the marketplace. It is suggested to fit the tiles using water-resistant or water resistant glue and also grout.

How to Install or Replace a Bathtub

Find Your Dimensions

The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.

After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?

Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly

Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.

Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.

Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.

Cut Out the Old Tub

After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.

Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.

Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.

Install the New Tub

Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.

Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.

Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.

When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.

Secure the Tub

After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.

Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.

Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.

Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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EXACTLY HOW TO INSTALL A TUB (STEP BY STEP).

Exactly how to Install a Tub (Step By Step).